Multiple Personalities

Published in Allure

The best makeup for fall is definitely not for the meek. This season, eyes, lips, and cheeks are either vivid (fuchsia lip stains), shimmery (gold-flecked green shadows), or both (sparkly pink blush). Wallflowers need not apply.

What Can Brown Do for You?
The latest makeup trend is a throwback to the '90s: Brown lipstick. But does it actually look good on anyone?

The '90s browns were thick and matte, while this century's are creamy, sheer, or contain a little shimmer, which is already a major improvement. They also have a hint of burgundy or brick for warmth (shades with silver or gray are too ghoulish). Makeup artist Troy Surratt suggests pairing brown lips with beige shadow and bronzer: “You want color harmony—neutrals in the same family, but softer on the eyes and cheeks so they don't compete with the lips.”

Clarins Colour Quench Lip Balm in Caramel: “With its sheer coverage and warm red tones, this is a great, high-impact color for women with pale skin,” says Surratt. “For darker skin, it will look like your lips, but richer.”
Cover Girl Outlast Lipstain in Nude Kiss: “This will show up well on women with fair to medium complexions and neutralize any natural rosiness in the lips, making for a true chocolate color,” he says. “To keep the lips from looking too matte, add a dab of clear lip gloss on top.”
Yves Rocher Couleurs Nature Sheer and Shine Lipstick in Gelée Caramel: “The formula is sheer and juicy. Red and copper flecks give the brown some dimension.”

Liner Notes
Lining the inner rims of the eyes looks sexy, but we've heard it's not entirely safe. Now, several companies have created inner-eye liners with organic ingredients or minerals and vitamins. But are they any better than traditional ones? “There is no evidence that they're healthier,” says ophthalmologist Marguerite McDonald. Except for women with chronic eyelid inflammation, lining the inner rims with a basic pencil is safe if you follow these rules: Sharpen it before each use, and run your sharpener through the dishwasher once a week. And “make sure you completely remove the liner every night,” says McDonald.

Model Behavior
Anja Rubik and Lily Donaldson, the models in this story, share what they love about fall.

Rubik grew up in Poland, Greece, and South Africa; she's posed for Fendi, Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta, and Chloé advertising campaigns and is the creative director of 25 magazine.

Fan di Fendi perfume. “It's my new favorite.”
Mixing summer and winter clothes. “I pair a delicate, silky dress with a heavy wool sweater and a hat. I'm also a huge scarf freak—I have hundreds of them.”
Paris. “Fall is one of the busiest times of the year for me because of the fashion shows, so I don't get much time to travel for leisure. But I love Paris in fall—it's very romantic.”
Mulled wine. “I'm addicted!”
Fendi black leather high-heel boots. “I can't wait to wear them for the first time. Karl Lagerfeld gave them to me.”

At 16, Donaldson was spotted by a scout while shopping in London. Since then, she's appeared on virtually every major runway and in advertising campaigns for Chanel, Gucci, Christian Dior, and Lanvin. She's also one of the faces for Burberry's new makeup line.

Doc Martens boots. “I wear those with an old, cozy coat—I've had both of them for years.”
Hot toddies. “I love them! The best cold-weather drink.”
Egyptian Magic All Purpose Skin Cream. “In the fall, I switch to a heavier moisturizer.”
Her New York City apartment. “I love watching the leaves turn bright orange and red through my windows.”
The English countryside. “We have a bonfire and cook sausages. As I child, I loved being in the country in the fall and picking the last of the ripe blackberries.”

GET THE LOOKS
Sure, fall's makeup shades are daring—but we know you can pull them off; just follow these simple application tricks from the pros.

TANGERINE LIPSTICK Press on a creamy formula with a brush for opaque, even coverage. Pair it with a soft peachy blush. And for eyes, go traditional with black liner, or “play off bright lips by using a shadow that clashes, like a green,” says Page.
LAVENDER SHADOW Sweep a gray-mauve shade from the lash line to the brow bone. Then use it as an eyeliner with a wet brush on the outer edges of the upper and lower lashes. To prevent a heavy look, Cantello swept a clean, dry brush over the lids and skipped mascara.
SPARKLY PINK CHEEKS “Matte pink is chalky and hard to wear,” says Cantello. “Gold shimmer softens everything.” She dusted the blush on the apples of the cheeks and blended it outward. For extra highlighting, she applied a pearly powder to the cheekbones.
MATTE FUCHSIA LIPS Draw on a fuchsia stick or pen stain (they feel—and look—less dry and give more coverage than traditional stains), or dab on a lipstick with your finger. Then smack your lips together to make the shading even but not perfect.
FOREST GREEN SHADOW Cantello applied a powder with gold shimmer, fading it as she worked upward on the lids. Then she wet the brush and went over the lower lash line. (If you use a cream shadow, don't wet it.) Final touch: lots of black mascara.
PINK AND CHOCOLATE Sweep a dark chocolate shadow on the lid, winging it past the outer corner. Then apply a shimmery pink color around the edges and under the brow bone. A pink lip gloss with a hint of brown pulls the look together.
BURGUNDY LIPSTICK Pat on a lipstick with your finger so it doesn't look retro; top it with a thin layer of clear gloss. With lips this strong, “smoky eyes would be too goth,” says Cantello. “All you need on the eyes is a taupe or champagne shadow.”

Bright Ideas
Strong makeup, whether a vivid color or a shimmery texture, can be striking—or a total mess. These tips will ensure that you get it right.

BOLD LIPS: Rub a cleansing wipe on your mouth to remove flakes. “Most wipes have a mildly abrasive texture for exfoliating but also some moisturizing properties,” says Surratt.
If you have thin lips, stay away from dark and opaque lipstick shades, which can make lips look even smaller. Cantello likes to mix the lipstick with a little clear gloss to make it more sheer.
If a matte lipstick drags across your lips, Surratt recommends mixing a balm with your lipstick.
Don't leave cheeks completely bare, or your lips will look too bright; go for a blush in the same color family (but softer).
SHIMMERY EYES/CHEEKS: Keep shimmer to one feature. “Shine everywhere starts to look a little porn-star-y,” Surratt says.
Put a tiny bit of a shadow base or concealer on your lids before the shadow. “This helps the color bond to the skin, so you'll have less glitter fall-out,” says Surratt.
If you do end up with stray glitter under your eyes, Cantello suggests removing it with a cotton swab dipped in concealer.
For those wary of full-on glimmery blush, makeup artist Mally Roncal dots a highlighting cream on the apples of the cheeks, then dusts a sheer powder blush on top so the shimmer just peeks through the color.

TANGERINE LIPSTICK
“A SATURATED ORANGE IS SEXY, ELEGANT, AND STRONG,” SAYS MAKEUP ARTIST DICK PAGE.
LAVENDER SHADOW 
A LIGHT PURPLE SHADOW WITH GRAY UNDERTONES IS “A FRESH VARIATION ON SMOKY EYES THAT'S WEARABLE FOR DAY,” PAGE SAYS.
PINK AND CHOCOLATE
“WARMED UP WITH A HINT OF PALE PINK, CHOCOLATE BROWN IS A FLATTERING NEUTRAL,” SAYS PAGE.

BURGUNDY LIPSTICK
“IF YOU ALREADY WEAR DEEP PINKS OR REDS, THIS SHADE IS THE NEXT LOGICAL STEP,” PAGE SAYS.
FOREST GREEN SHADOW
WHILE LIME OR MINT CAN BE GARISH, THIS GOLDEN MOSS SHADE IS “CHIC AND SOPHISTICATED,” SAYS PAGE.
SPARKLY PINK CHEEKS
“BRIGHT PINK CHEEKS ARE YOUTHFUL,” SAYS PAGE—ESPECIALLY WHEN THAT PINK IS FLECKED WITH GOLD SHIMMER.
MATTE FUCHSIA LIPS 
“WEIRDLY, THIS SUPERBRIGHT COLOR LOOKS GOOD ON EVERYONE,” SAYS MAKEUP ARTIST LINDA CANTELLO, “AND A STAINED EFFECT FEELS PLAYFUL.”